The Day of the Dead, also known as All Souls Day, is celebrated in México and in all of Latin America on November 2nd. In the larger cities, Catholics attend morning Mass and then gather at cemeteries to cover the tombs of their loved ones with flowers and prayers. However, a very special ceremony that is a blend of the religious and the pagan is held on the Island of Janitzio in the State of Michoacan. This is an annual ceremony that reaches across borders and attracts thousands of tourists.The tourist who is fortunate enough to witness the preparation for this notorious event that is also celebrated in Patzcuaro; is left with an unforgettable experience. Patzcuaro is located on the bank of the lake that bears the same name and 312 kilometers from the city of Guadalajara, the second largest city in the country of Mexico.The ancient P’urhepecha chose to establish themselves in the lush region of Michoacan in the XIV Century. It was the center of their kingdom. Local folklore has it that, “the blue gods of water lived in this region.”Patzcuaro was the metropolis for many years, but it later became a recreational site for the nobility that lived in Tzintzuntzan, under the rule of Tzitsipandacuri.

During the XVI Century, the Episcopal seat was bestowed to Don Vasco de Quiroga. Quiroga later moved to Valladolid, taking the Episcopal seat with him, but this Christian influence made its mark on the area.
The men and women of this town have actively participated in the different epochs of the history of Mexico. Without a doubt, the attraction of Patzcuaro is rooted in the pure Spanish architecture that has survived through the ages. Indeed it was so beautifully designed that Don Vasco de Quiroga hoped to make it the capital province of Michoacan.

Because of this architectural beauty, it is good to be there ahead of time for the celebration on the Day of the Dead. Indeed, it’s advisible to make reservations at least one month in advance since the cultural events that start on the 28th of October, attract many people. It could be said that a major attraction is the opportunity to participate in the Tianguis, which is a craft fair where one can purchase flowers for the altars that are placed on the tombs on the first of November. It is very easy to pass time observing the beauty and the completion of Michoacan craft, all the while lamenting one’s inability to buy up all one desires in Christmas ornaments and colorfully decorated confections. The general atmosphere is one of fiesta.

You get to the Island of Janitzio by boat. The fishermen put on a lavish show to welcome tourists, performing impressive demonstrations with their butterfly nets. At the summit of the island, the stone statue of Morelos dominates the view, with its out-stretched hand extending a welcome to native and foreigner alike.

On this island, just as in the town of Ihuatzio, Tzintzuntzan, Huecorio, Jaracuaro, Zurumutaro; the pagan rite is mixed with the religious ceremony creating, at one instant, an atmosphere of joy and sadness. (more…)

Segunda Parte

La comida preparada durante la celebración de muerto nuevo, que es como se denomina Día de Muertos en la Meseta P’urhepecha en el estado de Michoacán, se ofrece primero al alma que se recuerda, para que aproveche el flujo vital de los alimentos en el altar, quedando la parte física para los familiares y amigos.

La p’urhepecha, al igual que la maya, es la cultura del maíz, por lo que en este producto de la tierra no sólo radica su valor alimenticio, sino también su valor cultural.

Animecha Ke’jtsitakua - Ofrenda de Muertos

Entre los alimentos tradicionales que se preparan para la celebración, se destaca la corunda llamada huaparikata hecha a base de maíz nuevo del año, que a partir de octubre se empieza a cosechar, dándole forma de una estrella de cinco picos, como si fuera una figura geométrica.

Esta corunda que también representa la estrella o el átomo divino del muerto, al igual que la flor parakatatsitsíki se relaciona con el enjambre de mariposas, que representa el regreso de las almas. El pan de muerto, con diseños propios de las creencias de esta región, se elabora con la figura de un conejo — aguani— que representa al hombre, ya que en San Lorenzo creen que el alma que es hija de la luna regresa a ella, el cuerpo físico retorna a la Madre Tierra y el espíritu al sol conocido como juriata en p’urhépecha. El pan con figura humana — guapita — en forma de muñeca, representa a la mujer.

Desde el día anterior al primero de noviembre en San Lorenzo, las señoras, parientes y amistades se amanecen preparando el chile para los nacatamales. A la medianoche se dejan oír las campanas de la iglesia anunciando la llegada de las almas.Los anfitriones sancochan el maíz en ceniza de leña para hacer el nixtamal y sacar al día siguiente muy temprano grandes cantidades de masa para los nacatamales, junto con el mole rojo de chile guajillo. La atápakua se condimenta con hongo, quelites, carne de res, y muchas veces se hacen a base de vegetales, según el gusto de cada familia.

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